Sunday, November 30, 2014

Destruction of the Cameron Highlands

I was deeply sadden to hear about the Cameron Highlands mud floods which occurred on the 5th and 6th of November 2014. This was the second time a mud flood of this magnitude ravaged the Bertam Valley which lies in the highlands. A year earlier a similar mud flood struck and 3 casualties were reported. This time around, it was reported that there were 6 casualties from this disaster but unofficial reports suggested that the toll was higher. The video below shows the mud flood ravaging through Kampung Baru Ringlet which is a town located in the Bertam Valley:


 The Cameron Highlands has always been a very special place for me as this is the very place I started my high altitude adventures. It is very sad indeed to see the destruction of this pristine highlands as I have always known it for its lush greenery and gentle rolling hills surrounded by the majestic blue mountains in the distance.

This is the view of the picturesque highlands that I've always known. 

Throughout the years, agri farms have dominated the landscape of the Cameron Highlands. Even the mountain air is no longer cool these days and the number of tourists have been dropping consistently.

In the past few years since I last hiked in the highlands, massive vegetable farms have been  rapidly sprucing up like mushrooms after the rain. The organic food industry has become a booming industry as most Malaysians have become more health concious throughout the years. Generally, as people in Malaysia get wealthier, they become more willing to spend on organic food which supposedly contains zero pesticide hence good for health. A lot of entrepreneurs saw the potential of this organic food industry and quickly capitalized on the growing demand. They rushed up the Cameron Highlands to acquire fertile virgin jungle land to raise vegetable farms, some through illegal means. Since the organic farming business was so good, it raked in huge profits for the farmers and the authorities that govern the land. Man being man are always cursed with the insatiable desire for more thus opening the floodgates to a whopping 6000 acres of land being cleared legally and illegally in the highlands.  
Land clearing on the slopes of Brinchang in the Cameron Highlands not too far away from a holiday resort. 

Years of rampant land clearing have led to the accumulation of a lot of silt in the Sultan Abu Bakar Dam which is part of the Ringlet water reservoir catchment. When the land is cleared, the loose earth when exposed to torrential rain, flows into streams and eventually into catchment reservoirs and deposits as silt. These silt used to just sit at the base of the Ringlet water reservoir but after years of deposition, the volume of silt have built up to a point it almost filled the entire reservoir with silt. Even the waters of the catchment reservoir became an obvious muddy brown which is a clear indicator of the dam silting up to the brim. 

  The murky brownish waters of the Ringlet reservoir is a sign of heavy siltation.

Towards the year end, in the months of November-December, Peninsular Malaysia is hit by a meteorological phenomena known as the Northeast monsoon which brings with it heavy downpour. The Cameron Highlands being the mountainous back bone of the peninsular receives the full brunt of torrential rains. This is precisely when disaster struck. On the 5th of November 2014, the rain poured heavily and continuously for more than 5 hours hence triggering the disaster. As the Sultan Abu Bakar dam can only withstand not more than 80% of its catchment capacity and the siltation deposits had probably taken up close to 50% of its capacity, the dam could not cope with the additional hydrostatic loads on its walls and had no choice but to open the floodgates. The result was the devastating mud flood which ravaged through the mountain town of Ringlet and the rest of the Bertam Valley.

Cartoon depicting how land clearing leads to siltation of the reservoir resulting in reduced water catchment capacity of the dam.

The map shows the extent of the area ravaged by the mud floods.
Fast flowing floodwaters gave villagers no time to escape to safer areas with their belongings.
The trail of destruction left behind by the mud floods in the Ringlet town in Cameron Highlands.
The inhabitants of Kampung Baru Ringlet suffered massive loss of property due to damages caused by the mud flood.

SJK C Bertam Valley was not spared from the mud floods.
The damage to school property was so extensive that it forced the cancellation of the SPM examinations for Form Five students in Cameron Highlands.

The SPM examinations which were supposed to be held at the school was forced to be cancelled in the wake of the destruction and students were relocated to other parts of the region to take the exams.
The Sultan of Pahang inspecting the destruction in the Cameron Highlands in Nov 2014.

Following the destruction due to the mud floods in Cameron Highlands, there was the usual finger pointing when figuring out who the main culprit was. There were suggestions by certain quarters that it was the doings of the illegal workers from Bangladesh, Myanmar & Indonesia that were responsible in the land clearing. However, if you think about it these illegal workers merely follow orders and wont simply toil to clear land if not instructed to do so with no incentives. Once again the innocent villagers were being hoodwinked by those in power to find the scapegoat. The Malaysian media was flooded with news of the destruction of the highlands and politicians were promising millions of dollars for the clearing up of the Cameron Highlands but that doesn't solve the long standing issue of environmental destruction as the greed of man and their disrespect towards mother nature will cause her to bite back with a promise of devastation.

It is my only hope that mother nature is resilient and will recover from any destruction if given the chance to but man must learn to place deep respect for mother nature and the mountains instead of being blinded by the temptation of material gains otherwise we are bound to witness another round of mud floods in the Cameron Highlands which will only get worse next time around. 


Saturday, November 29, 2014

Im Back Blogging After a Long Long Lapse

Its been more than 4 and a half years since my last post on this blog but I guarantee you that there's been a whole lots of excitement in my high altitude life all these years hopping from peak to peak. I just finally managed to find some inspiration and some time (well not really that much time) to update my missing high altitude adventures throughout the years. Thanks to my long time mountain buddy, Peter who mentioned to me that he stumbled upon my blog while Googling something about Mt. Korbu recently. If not for him, I wouldn't even remember that this blog still existed.

So much has happened in my life ever since the last post on Mt. Tahan which I climbed in year 2005! Can you believe it? Its been almost a decade since I conquered Tahan! How old I'm getting now :P

                         Graduated from KTJ in June 2006

Anyways, just to update y'all, after 2 good years studying my pre-U in Kolej Tuanku Ja'afar (Cambridge A-Levels), I went to the Colorado School of Mines to further my studies. To be honest, I also got an offer from the Imperial College in London to do Geology. However I stood with my choice to pursue Petroleum Engineering at the Colorado School of Mines partly because London is flat and wet while Colorado is smecked right in the Rocky Mountains and is definitely da place to be for a mountain man!

 In May 2010, after 4 topsy turvy years of studying and adventuring in the Americas, I graduated with my Bachelors Degree in Petroleum Engineering.

                           Graduating in the mountains!
                Yup, thats ma degree in Petroleum Engineering ;)
                                To infinity & beyond!
                  The hat throw is a must for graduation ceremonies.
                 Thats right, its a one way ticket...back to Malaysia!

I went back to Malaysia to start my career with PETRONAS, who I am very grateful to as my sponsors for my education. Believe it or not, when I got my offer letter I was posted to KERTEH!! The place that I grew up as a child! Sweet childhood memories I had of that place indeed. The Kerteh of today is slightly different from those days where there was practically NOTHING but none the less exciting! Anyways, I became a Well Intervention Engineer in charge of Peninsular Malaysia Operations which is mostly offshore Terengganu. I did a lot of cool stuff such as slickine fishing, Coiled Tubing methanol soaking and running tractors with E-Line if you know whats that all about haha! Well I guess all you need to know is that Im serving d nation by enhancing oil & gas production to optimum levels!

         In front of a slickline unit which is used to intervene a well.
                      I travel offshore with these cool choppers.

After 3 good years in Kerteh, I've transferred back to d big city of KL where I'm based in Malaysia's national icon the Twin Towers. Its good that I can see the breathtaking view of the Titiwangsa Mountain Range on a clear day from my office window as it never fails to inspire me to push towards greater heights in my career!

               Based high up in the sky in the iconic Twin Towers.

Anyways, thats what I've been up to in a nutshell for all these years. I was so occupied building my career and doing other important things in life that I almost forgotten about this blog. But the mountains are always a part of me and when I drift a bit too far away, they will start calling and then begins another high altitude adventure with another tale to tell.

*I promise to update more on my missing mountain adventures throughout the years in the consequent posts. Stay tuned for more!

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

Mount Tahan, roof of the peninsular (G1)


View of the Mount Tahan massive hiding in the clouds, 2187m asl.

        The expedition team at the trailhead of Gunung Tahan.

I went to Mount Tahan in July 2005 along with my KTJ hiking buddies, Peter, Nooh, Azman and Azman's elder bro. Mount Tahan located in the Tahan range is the highest mountain in peninsular Malaysia standing at 2187m above sea level. The Tahan range is part of the Tenasserim range which goes up all the way to Southern Thailand. It feels very different from the mountains located in the Titiwangsa range because its vegetation is not as dense and the mountain itself is more rounded and less jagged. Nevertheless, it is no easy meat to conquer Tahan. Its name itself means "endurance". Only those who have enough endurance and can withstand all the challenges will be able to reach its summit!

One of the many river crossings.

One of the highlights of climbing Gunung Tahan is the many river crossings that have to be made. The mountain is a source to a multitude of streams which eventually forms river complexes that flow throughout the Peninsular to provide crucial freshwater to the populace. The two main rivers straddling this area is the Tahan River and the Tembeling River. We had to cross these rivers several times because it criss crosses the trek. The Tahan River in particular is very pure and clear and water can be drank right of the stream. 

Mountain buddies, Peter & I.

The clouds opening up and unwrapping the massive Gunung Tahan in the backdrop.

We were blessed with good weather for the first half of the trail but after lunch, the weather on the way to the top was basically wet and stormy. The clouds usually build up by mid day due to the high levels of humidity of the tropical climate. This is then followed by a tropical downpour for most part of the afternoon hence it is always wise to time your journey well to avoid getting stuck in the middle of a tropical storm while on an exposed ridge where the danger of being struck by lightning is very real.

Peter in a Green Hornet-like raincoat after being inspired by Jet Lee.


We took a break for lunch at Puncak Botak which is a barren  and exposed false summit. We could not stay there for long since the weather was rapidly deteriorating by the minute. We cooked ourselves a reliable quick meal in the form of maggi noodles and ate a bunch of bananas and chocs to stash up that precious energy required to push for the summit. 

Drenched & soaking wet by the torrential highland downpour.

Carpet-like clouds blanketing the mountains of the Tahan Range at dawn's early light.

On the summit of Gunung Tahan, the Roof of the Peninsular.


Azman & I hiking into the Tahan valley beneath. In the backdrop is Gunung Gedung.


Kem Kor, the basecamp. 

Only four of the five team members managed to reach the summit as Azman's elder bro found the going to be too tough for him and decided to stay put in base camp (Kem Kor). The day we reached summit was a rainy and wet day and we were all drenched in cold rainwater. Peter in particular was suffering from the cold as he was soaked up and the cold got into him. However the next morning we were blessed with great views of the rain forest and below and also the surrounding mountains of the unique Tahan Range.

A "pit stop" at the tree post.

Yong Belar (G3)

Yong Belar, a peak that straddles the border between three states namely Pahang, Perak & Kelantan is the third highest peak in peninsular Malaysia. Ian & his group of friends made an expedition to this hell of a mountain where their expedition team encountered some tough moments and thrilling events. 

Ian posing in front of Yong Belar mountain.

Yong Belar Team:
Lead- Ian Cheong
- Teoh Paik Qinn
- Rajpal Kuckreja
- Brian Lim Chien Nan

The Yong Belar expedition team.
The Yong Belar expedition set off from Cameron Highlands following Mr. Jeff's 4WD to the trailhead in the beautiful Blue Valley. The guides were Arman and Budu (who should be avoided in the future as they are dishonest thieves that take advantage of school kids by stealing their possesions).

Ian happy in the jungle.
The team started off the trek from the Blue Valley dam.

Field Report from Ian Cheong:
1. Guides secretly stole the wallets and cellphones of Yong Belar team members.
2. Paik Qinn found the going tough and was suffering from a nervous breakdown. Mom told him to pray to God.
3. Rajpal had to hold on to his piss for one whole night, almost bursting his bladders because there were wild animals surrounding the campsite.
4. Elephants and wildboars surrounded the tents at night in search for food because food waste weren't disposed properly. This scared the shit out of the team & some even broke down!

Posing on the summit 2181m asl, the third highest summit in Peninsular Malaysia.

Joyous celebrations after a long and arduous battle to the top of Yong Belar.
The team reached the summit of Yong Belar on the 15 of March 2005, one day later than they were expected to arrive. The team descended the mountain and headed back to KL with priceless memories only to realize that their pockets were empty...

Sunday, July 4, 2010

Mystical Gunung Ledang

The next mountain destination I had in mind after successes in the Titiwangsa mountains is Gunung Ledang or also known as Mount Ophir by most Singaporeans. Mount Ledang is a very popular climb amongst Singaporeans because of its relative proximity to Singapore (just 2-3 hours by car from Singapore). It is also arguably the most climbed mountain in Malaysia because the routes up the mountain is relatively beginner friendly and also due to the legend of the Princess of Gunung Ledang which adds some mystic to the mountain. The planing involved for this expedition wasn't that rigorous as there was a lot of information available on the internet. There were two main routes up this mountain and they were the Sagil and Asahan routes respectively. The former being the more popular and crowded route because there is a big waterfall along the way which most people like to chill at. That kept in mind, I decided to follow the less trodden Asahan route instead to avoid the crowds.

In front of Christ Church in Stadhuys Square, Malacca Town.

At the A Famosa, the famous 16th century Portuguese Fort.
Ian, Brian and I set out for this trip taking a bus to Malacca town. We spent a day and a night in Malaysia's historical gem touring famous historical sties like the A Famosa, Saint Paul's Cathedral ruins, The Stadhuys and Jonker Walk. The following day, we took a cab from the town center all the way to Asahan which is located at the foothill of the mountain. Asahan is actually the opposite side of the mountain facing east while Sagil is on the western end facing Malacca.

There was a guide post at the Asahan trailhead where we registered and paid park fees and also booked our guide. There was a dog at the guide post which was a little hyperactive and was quite annoying at times as it bothered us the whole time while we were going through the paper works with the guide. That dog even tried to make love with Brian's leg by clinging on to his leg and humping on it! Brian eventually freaked out and ran away, only to be passionately chased by the dog.
Brian climbing up a tree stump trying to avoid the over-hyper dog which wanted to make love with his leg.
Much to my surprise, truckloads of army personnel came by and dropped off at least a hundred soldiers at the Asahan guidepost. Initially we thought that some kind of war games must be going on but we found out that it was just part of an exercise for the group of voluntary soldiers also known in Malay as "Askar Wattaniah".

Together with the Askar Wattaniah soldiers at the foothill of Mount Ledang.
We headed up the slopes of Ledang along with our guide, Ridhwan and the barrack of soldiers. Most of the early stages of the trail was trekking through thick jungle infested by mosquitoes and as usual, we got bitten badly by those parasites. The first major challenge was a bare rock face which was quite steep. Fixed ropes had to be used to assist in the climb up these rock faces. Thankfully it wasn't raining because the rocks can be very slippery when it is wet. Along the way up we made a lot of soldier friends who were taking a break along the trail.

Ian & Brian climbing up the slippery rock face with the help of fixed ropes while the soldiers watch on.
We reached our campsite which was an open ground next to a small stream. It was quite a sandy campsite and this is a good thing because this means that we will be sleeping on soft ground. We left our luggage on the campsite and didn't bother to set up camp yet as it was crowded with army personnel enjoying lunch break. We just had some snacks for lunch and decided to push on for the summit to avoid the "massive traffic" once those army people finished their lunch and head up the mountain.

Assistance of a ladder was needed to climb up a steep and challenging portion of the slope.
Hiking up without luggage felt way much better and lighter and helped speed things up. The vegetation higher up in the mountain was more scarce and the trees are not as big and tall as those at the bottom. The mist and fog were also about to set in and the temperature was cooler than the bottom. It probably was a good call to move on quick and not stop too long for a heavy lunch because it would just make our bodies cool down and take the climbing momentum off us. The area around the summit was a steep rocky outcrop. Fixed ropes and even fixed ladders helped us climb up the challenging slopes. When we approached the summit, we could clearly see the deep drop below us, making it a little unnerving.

On the summit, above the clouds looking towards the Straits of Malacca.
There is a big telecommunication tower located just below the summit by the ridge which one would definitely not miss. The summit was quite flat and had lots of room. It also had very little vegetation unlike that of Mount Korbu's. This meant that we could have a 360 degree panoramic view of the surroundings! To the west we could see the Straits of Malacca and the ships passing through it and also the town of Malacca. To the east was the view of the surrounding hills of Asahan.

Ian and Brian on the summit in front of the telecommunication tower by the ridge.
We camwhored and posed around the whole summit, taking advantage of the spectacular views. According to legend, the summit is also where the Princess of Gunung Ledang supposedly stays in a magical garden palace. We didn't see any magical garden on the summit and we didn't find any palace with the princess in it despite calling out her name repeatedly :P One part of the legend even says that the princess wanted the Sultan of Malacca to build a bridge made of gold that connects the town of Malacca to the summit of Gunung Ledang! That's one really high maintenance princess and if I were the king I would just forget her and start looking for some easier to please courtesan!

Posing by the ledge on the summit.
Flying in the air!
We headed down to the campsite after spending about an hour on the summit. The army personnel arrived on the summit in droves just when we were about to head down. We took a good refreshing bath in the stream before cooking up a long awaited meal. The night went by quite well only with a few glitches such as Brian sleeping like a dead log and at times rolling over and crushing Ian with his "kayu balak" weight.


Buddies taking a refreshing bath in the natural pool.

At the campsite, in front of our tent that we've pitched up.
The next day, we headed down the mountain back to the guide post. We were lucky enough to catch a taxi who just dropped off a previous passenger. Trust me its quite hard to catch taxis especially in remote areas like this. We bid farewell to the guide post people and also the mountain and headed back to Malacca Sentral where we bought our tickets back to KL. The climb up Ledang was a short but every bit interesting and fun trip and although we didn't find any princess up there the story of this trip will interest many "city princesses" out there in KL who would even hesitate to take a gentle walk in the park in Lake Gardens.

The view of Mount Ledang from the foothill in Asahan. The telecommunication tower can even be seen.